Hike 21 : Hills and Humidity - Lavender to beyond Devil’s Glen

        Blue Mountains Section End to End 

            It has been almost a year since we have been able to get back onto the Bruce Trail.  A combination of life realities, job constraints, and other treks has seemingly always gotten in the way of plans to get back out onto this amazing trail. The solution to these challenges is to again take on an entire section of the BTC in a single venture. 
 
As such, this weekend Sean, Lenora, and I are participating in the organized end-to-end hike of the Blue Mountains section of the Bruce Trail.  Lenora picked Sean and I up in Simcoe after she finished teaching yesterday, and we drove up to Craigleith Provincial Park, where we will camp for the weekend while we are doing the hike.  Our goal is to complete the 67 km long section in two days.  The Blue Mountain End-to-End is our third consecutive organized adventure on the Bruce Trail with the others being the Caledon Hills and the Dufferin-Hi Lands sections.

 
As part of this weekend, we are also participating in an avian-related citizen science bio-blitz, which is an annual event organized by Bird Studies Canada to raise money for the conservation of birds.  The idea is that teams of people head out for one day in May and attempt to see as many different species of birds as possible during their chosen 24 hour period.  They then collect donations from sponsors willing to support the conservation of birds.  This year we decided to see how many birds we could find while hiking along the Bruce Trail.
 
Blue Mountain Club
 
As we did on the Caledon Hills and Dufferin Hills sections of the Bruce Trail, we are tackling the Blue Mountain region during an organized End-to-End event over the course of two days.  While our first twelve or so hikes on the Bruce Trail were undertaken as a series of day treks, the distance from Simcoe, Ontario on the northern shores of Lake Erie to our present location on the BTC is now too far for day treks.  This means that we are now taking the approach of travelling north, camping at an established provincial park, and completing entire sections in one go.

 
As we have mentioned before, these weekend events do not necessarily follow the BTC in order, systematically moving hikers south to north or north to south.  Instead, the organizers choose a rally point near the middle of the section, have everyone meet there each morning, and then bus them to a chosen start-point for the section.  This means that one morning they might travel from the southern edge of the section to the middle, while the next day they might be hiking from the northern edge back to the centre.  Regardless of the specific details of the order in which we hiked this section, this blog will continue to present our progress along the Bruce Trail, hopefully seamlessly and sensibly, from south to north.
 
Transport to the Trail
 
For this weekend’s End-to-End event, all hikers rallied at the Blue Mountains Resort parking lot.  Once there, we registered and were soon loaded onto school buses.  Heading off in the first bus en route to the starting point, we could already tell that today was going to get hot, as it was already warm at 7 AM.  As we drove to the dropoff point – the boundary between the Dufferin Hi-Lands Section and the Blue Mountains Section of the BTC – we noticed that from this point the landscape had begun to change from wide stretches of farmland, into the rolling hills which define some of Ontario’s best ski resorts to the north.

 
Half an hour later, we were dropped off at the beginning of the Blue Mountain Section of the Bruce Trail near the crossroads of Lavender Ontario – the beginning of the sixth BTC club section for us!  From this point onward, we have just over 500 km of hiking to go before arriving in Tobermory at the northern trail terminus.
 
“Sweeping” along the Bruce Trail
 
Unloaded at the crossroads of Lavender, a community originally known as Masten’s Corners, we set off north for a short road walk toward the boundaries of Noisy River Provincial Nature Reserve.  According to local signage, Lavender was founded in 1837 and it originally had a hotel, stores, post office, blacksmith shop, cheese factory, and temperance lodge, as well as two churches.  At present however, there are only a few houses in this quiet neighborhood.

 
As with many group hikes, the pace at the beginning today was fast as everyone had energy and was jockeying for position, trying to figure out where they fit into the group.  The large group marched shoulder to shoulder, spanning across the entire road – a mix of people walking very quickly and those that were shuffling along.  This is the type of rush and bustle that we actively avoid (not wanting to be pushed once on the trail), and so we simply slowed our pace to allow everyone else to race ahead.  Seeing us slow down however, the BTC hike “sweeper” (or person put at the rear of the group to keep everyone moving) immediately became concerned.  As a result, we soon found ourselves being simultaneously lectured to speed up, asked if we wanted to quit,  and encouraged that we could complete a day hike.

 
Having recently completed our third 700+ km Camino in Europe (Camino Frances, Via Podiensis, and the Caminho Portuguese Central), the “encouraging demands” to move quicker, and the insistence that Sean stop taking pictures, were somewhat stunning.  Any polite comments we made noting our previous hiking experiences were simply ignored (oddly, the volunteer just kept giggling), and the empty platitudes of encouragement continued.   The only solution it seemed was to outpace those ahead of us, and in doing so we soon found ourselves passing trekker after trekker, leaving the sweeper to “motivate” others.  As it turned out, this unfortunate strategy would make us the first hikers to finish later in the day.  As we pushed on, the Bruce Trail eventually led into the Noisy River Provincial Nature Reserve.

 
Noisy River Provincial Nature Reserve
 
Past the boundary for Noisy River Provincial Nature Reserve, the Bruce Trail wove in and out of a forested stretch and crossed agricultural fields and pastures before reaching the edge of the Niagara Escarpment. It was a beautiful region of rolling grasslands interspersed with forests and shade trees.  As usual, the Bruce Trail was well marked and clearly blazed, which made it an easy route to follow.  Continuing on, the trail ventured along the escarpment, past deep crevices and fissures, before descending the hillside and skirting around a marshy patch and a large pond which was full of frogs, mallards, and a Great Blue Heron. 

 
We soon crossed a concession road and climbed up the escarpment to the busy Simcoe Rd. 9, which we briefly followed.  After this, for 9 kilometers, or almost 2 hours of hiking, our path continued northward, weaving back and broth across the 10^th Concession.   Short detours down right of ways, fenced property lines, green spaces and along the edge of the escarpment provided welcome breaks from the road walking. Shortly after crossing the 12 / 13 Sideroad Nottawasaga road, the Bruce Trail proceeded down a treed access lane past open agricultural fields. 

 
Rest and Refreshment Break
 
At the southern boundary of the Nottawaga Bluffs region, which was about 16 kilometers into the day’s trek, we came to the check-in point.  Here, thanks to the thoughtful work of volunteers a rest station complete with cold drinks and sugary treats was set up for End-to-End hikers to enjoy throughout the day.  Upon arrival at these points hikers check in, have their time of arrival recorded, and can sit down to enjoy a short rest break and a chat.  As always, we were thankful for the amazing work of the volunteers, which is of incalculable help, and is a wonderful source of relief for those walking. 

 
Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area
 
Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area is a 400 acre protected area whose property is a mixture of hardwood and coniferous forest, meadows, grasslands, and dolostone cliffs.  In addition, Nottawasaga Bluffs hosts a number of trails which are accessible year round for hiking and cross country skiing. 
 
Walking into Nottawasaga Bluffs, we began by entering into a dense forest where our very narrow trail turned somewhat westward and soon led us through open fields and grassy meadows. The tail would continue this process of weaving into cedar forests, taking us along property lines, down access roads, and into marshy terrain for much of our time there.  Eventually the BTC turned east, where we found ourselves navigating along an abandoned lane, which was extraordinarily torn up and very muddy throughout.

 
Once again back in a cedar forest, we found the remains of a historic lime kiln – which we had last seen in Limehouse several hikes ago.  Such kilns were used to melt down quarried dolostone into lime, which in turn was used in construction.  According to online resources, it would take almost three days for the kiln to reach the needed temperature to be operated.  As a result, at one point, the vast majority of the region’s trees were eventually cut down to feed the fires, which explains the extensive logging roads throughout the property.  Such industrial regions often led to the development of small communities, which by the early twentieth century began to decline as advancements in other fields changed construction needs.  

 
Keyholes and Crevice
 
Continuing to weave through Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area, we found ourselves at the crossroads of a number of side trails, and Sean’s curiosity got the better of him. As we took a quick break, had a quick drink from our water bottles, and enjoyed the cool drafts of air emanating from the rocks and crevices below, he flipped through the BTC Guidebook to see where the various alternative paths led.   It was at this time that one of the amazing Bruce Trail volunteers helping with this weekend’s event stopped next to us.  Seeing our interest in the nearby Keyhole Side Trail, he noted that the valley below was one of the most challenging sections of the Bruce system.  He explained to us that if we followed the blue blazes, they would lead us through a tour of the area’s unique geography, with sections that would allow us to walk through canyons, explore the escarpment, and require us to take off our backpacks and slowly slip through tight rocky crevices.  According to him, one crack is so narrow only a child or an extremely fit person could slip through without getting stuck.  While tempted to explore, we still had a long way to go on today’s organized trek and could again hear the sweep calling out to people to keep walking.  As such, we hiked on, knowing that we would have to come back one day to explore more.

 
Camping on the Bruce Trail
 
Heading southward, and now having come almost back to the point where we had entered the park, we again felt that there are some sections of the Bruce Trail that make you feel like you are walking a giant circle. Indeed, our route on the Alltrails app now suggests that we have done just that, as we have been taken to practically every corner of the Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area. Oh well, we are out here to walk, not to be finished walking.
 
Beyond the Betty Carter Side Trail we passed a rare sight – an established legal campsite on the Bruce Trail!  Anyone who has ever contemplated hiking the BTC from Queenston Heights to Tobermory will undoubtedly be aware of the challenges involved.  This route, while naturally beautiful, geologically fascinating, and amazing to trek, has extremely few easy points to resupply and there are almost no camping facilities on or near the trail.  As a result, one can only thru-hike by getting help, spending long periods walking off trail, or by wild camping en route – an activity that is highly discouraged by the BTC. 
 
Freedom Rock and Best Caves
 
Hiking along the rim of the escarpment, we next arrived at a location noted on our maps as Freedom Rock and Best Caves.  Much like the Keyhole crevices, both of these geological features are off the trail, and so we saw neither.  According to the BTC guidebook, Freedom Rock is found just off of the main trail, and is a 50-60 meter rock that was an outcropping which has broken off the escarpment. 

In addition, nearby are a series of crevasses in the ground throughout the forest.  These geological features are popularly known as Best Caves.   This system of crevices was named for the previous owner of the property.  According to online sources “The Well” is one of the most impressive caves – with its entrance marked by faint red and yellow blazes and reaching depths of more than 10 meters.  Once again however, the realities of the day, and the distances we still needed to travel, pushed us to walk on and leave any further exploration for another occasion. 

Ganaraska Trail
 
Our route again turned, taking us eastward along the escarpment and boxing around private property lines.   At this point a huge rain storm began, bring with it a mixture of relief from the day’s built up heat, and dismay at have to hike while wet.  We were all soon drenched as we walked though open fields, without rain gear, and pushing though a rain-soaked grasses.  Within minutes the trail had turned to mud, leaving us to trudge along the unimproved roadway (or possibly abandoned logging road) as we squelched onward. Soaked to the skin, we were surprised when we met up with a new set of signage for the Ganaraska Hiking Trail. 
 

 

Like the Oak Ridges Moraine Trail, the Ganaraska Hiking Trail is a long-distance pathway that crosses a large portion of Ontario.  Presently, it spans some 500 kilometers from Port Hope on the shores of Lake Ontario to this intersection with the BTC near Collingwood.  Much like the Bruce Trail, the Ganaraska system has side trails and is divided into local clubs who maintain it.  Interested in this trail system, and uninterested in walking on in wet clothes, we took a few moments with our thoughts straying down this unknown (to us) trail way, wondering what adventures it might have to offer. 

 
With our day dreaming over, and with only 5.5 kilometers left, we were soon moving on.  After all, today’s trek wouldn't hike itself.
 
Devil’s Glen

 
Following the edge of the escarpment, the Bruce Trail soon took us steeply downhill into the Devil’s Glen.  In terms of our pathway, this section is comprised of four parts.  First is a switch backing descent along the southern escarpment to the Mad River waterway below.  Second comes a walk along the Mad River at the base of the valley.  Third is a steep ascent up to and through the Devil’s Glen Country Club.  And fourth is a walk through Devil’s Glen Provincial Park – which s also our end point for today! Our challenging 3 kilometers of trekking there would take us through each of these areas.

The Devil’s Glen region is a geological wonder, combining the glacial melt water erosion that formed the Mad River gorge and the landscape sitting on the terrace known as the Manitoulin Bedrock Lodge.  This area is also one of the highest points on the Niagara Escarpment, reaching over 500 meters above sea level.  Furthermore, according to local signage, about 4 km northwest of this point along the Sighampton Moraine is the highest location in Southern Ontario, at approximately 546 meters above sea level.

 
Descending into Devil’s Glen, the trail switch-backed down the steep escarpment through a dense conifer forest.  At the bottom of the valley we followed along the shores of the rushing Mad River, which we crossed over via the Country Club Bridge.  Now on the northern shore, we began an equally steep ascent of the other side of the valley.  Thankfully, in this portion we enjoyed the benefit of a number of wooden staircases.   Once again at the top of the Niagara Escarpment, a tough and vigorous challenge at the end of the day, the Bruce Trail wove us around the Devil’s Glen Country Club property.  Our route took us through the resort, past the main building, and a along a new neighborhood before turning west toward the provincial park.

 
Reflecting at day’s end
 
Exhausted, we emerged from Devil’s Glen Provincial Park to find 4 school buses lined up on the 10^th Concession waiting to pick up a group of sweaty, tired, rain drenched trekkers.   We checked in and collapsed onto the ground to enjoy a few minutes off our feet while drinking cold refreshments.  We all took the opportunity to change out of our wet hiking socks into a dry pair, although unfortunately we nonetheless had to put our drenched shoes back on. 

While sitting waiting to be loaded onto the bus and taken back to our car, we reflected on the day’s trek, which we had pushed though at a fast pace.  While it was a beautiful region, the heat of the day, combined with the long exposed stretches and undulating landscape, made for a physically demanding hike.  In addition, this morning's demand by the sweep that we march at high speed through the End-to-End event meant that we took little time to enjoy the walk, or explore the region.  As such, while we are glad to be done another part of the Bruce Trail, we feel as though it passed in a blur, and that we have little sense of it.