Blue Mountains Section End-to-End
Hills and Humidity on the Bruce Trail
It has been almost a year since we have been able to get back onto the Bruce
Trail. A combination of life realities,
job constraints, and other treks has seemingly always gotten in the way of
plans to get back out onto this amazing trail. The solution to these challenges
is to again take on an entire section of the BTC in a single venture.
As such,
this weekend Sean, Lenora, and I are participating in the organized end-to-end
hike of the Blue Mountains section
of the Bruce Trail. Lenora picked Sean
and I up in Simcoe after she finished teaching yesterday, and we drove up to Craigleith Provincial Park, where we
will camp for the weekend while we are doing the hike. Our goal is to complete the 67 km long
section in two days. The Blue Mountain
End-to-End is our third consecutive organized adventure on the Bruce Trail with
the others being the Caledon Hills and the Dufferin-Hi Lands sections.
As part
of this weekend, we are also participating in an avian-related citizen science
bio-blitz, which is an annual event organized by Bird Studies Canada to raise money for the conservation of
birds. The idea is that teams of people
head out for one day in May and attempt to see as many different species of
birds as possible during their chosen 24-hour period. They then collect donations from sponsors
willing to support the conservation of birds.
This year we decided to see how many birds we could find while hiking
along the Bruce Trail.
Blue Mountain Club
As we did
on the Caledon Hills and Dufferin Hills sections of the Bruce Trail, we are
tackling the Blue Mountain region during an organized End-to-End event over the
course of two days. While our first
twelve or so hikes on the Bruce Trail were undertaken as a series of day treks,
the distance from Simcoe, Ontario on the northern shores of Lake Erie to our present
location on the BTC is now too far for day treks. This means that we are now taking the
approach of travelling north, camping at an established provincial park, and
completing entire sections in one go.
As we
have mentioned before, these weekend events do not necessarily follow the BTC
in order, systematically moving hikers south to north or north to south. Instead, the organizers choose a rallying point
near the middle of the section, have everyone meet there each morning, and then
bus them to a chosen start-point for the section. This means that one morning they might travel
from the southern edge of the section to the middle, while the next day they
might be hiking from the northern edge back to the centre. Regardless of the specific details of the
order in which we hiked this section, this blog will continue to present our
progress along the Bruce Trail, hopefully seamlessly and sensibly, from south
to north.
Transport to the Trail
For this weekend’s End-to-End event, all hikers rallied at the Blue Mountains Resort parking
lot. Once there, we registered and were
soon loaded onto school buses. Heading
off on the first bus en route to the starting point, we could already tell that
today was going to get hot, as it was already warm at 7 AM. As we drove to the dropoff point – the boundary between the Dufferin
Hi-Lands Section and the Blue Mountains Section of the BTC – we noticed that
from this point the landscape had begun to change from wide stretches of
farmland, into the rolling hills which define some of Ontario’s best ski
resorts to the north.
Half an hour later, we were dropped off at the beginning of the Blue
Mountain Section of the Bruce Trail near the crossroads of Lavender Ontario –
the beginning of the sixth BTC club section for us! From this point onward, we have just over 500
km of hiking to go before arriving in Tobermory at the northern trail terminus.
“Sweeping” along the Bruce Trail
Unloaded at the crossroads of Lavender, a community originally known as
Masten’s Corners, we set off north for a short road walk toward the boundaries
of Noisy River Provincial Nature Reserve.
According to local signage, Lavender was founded in 1837 and it
originally had a hotel, stores, post office, blacksmith shop, cheese factory,
and temperance lodge, as well as two churches.
At present however, there are only a few houses in this quiet
neighbourhood.
As with
many group hikes, the pace at the beginning today was fast as everyone had
energy and was jockeying for position, trying to figure out where they fit into
the group. The large group marched
shoulder to shoulder, spanning across the entire road – a mix of people walking
very quickly and those that were shuffling along. This is the type of rush and bustle that we
actively avoid (not wanting to be pushed once on the trail), and so we simply
slowed our pace to allow everyone else to race ahead. Seeing us slow down, however, the BTC hike
“sweeper” (or person put at the rear of the group to keep everyone moving)
immediately became concerned. As a
result, we soon found ourselves being simultaneously lectured to speed up,
asked if we wanted to quit, and
encouraged that we could complete a day hike.
Having
recently completed our third 700+ km Camino in Europe (Camino Frances, Via Podiensis, and the Caminho Portuguese Central), the “encouraging demands” to move quicker, and the
insistence that Sean stop taking pictures, were somewhat stunning. Any polite comments we made noting our
previous hiking experiences were simply ignored (oddly, the volunteer just kept
giggling), and the empty platitudes of encouragement continued. The only solution it seemed was to outpace
those ahead of us, and in doing so we soon found ourselves passing trekker
after trekker, leaving the sweeper to “motivate” others. As it turned out, this unfortunate strategy
would make us the first hikers to finish later in the day. As we pushed on, the Bruce Trail eventually
led into the Noisy River Provincial Nature Reserve.
Noisy River
Provincial Nature Reserve
Past the boundary for Noisy River Provincial Nature Reserve, the Bruce
Trail wove in and out of a forested stretch and crossed agricultural fields and
pastures before reaching the edge of the Niagara Escarpment. It was a beautiful
region of rolling grasslands interspersed with forests and shade trees. As usual, the Bruce Trail was well-marked and
clearly blazed, which made it an easy route to follow. Continuing on, the trail ventured along the
escarpment, past deep crevices and fissures, before descending the hillside and
skirting around a marshy patch and a large pond which was full of frogs,
mallards, and a Great Blue Heron.
We soon crossed a concession road and climbed up the escarpment to the
busy Simcoe Rd. 9, which we briefly followed.
After this, for 9 kilometres, or almost 2 hours of hiking, our path
continued northward, weaving back and forth across the 10th
Concession. Short detours down the right of
ways, fenced property lines, green spaces and along the edge of the escarpment
provided welcome breaks from the road walking. Shortly after crossing the 12 /
13 Sideroad Nottawasaga road, the Bruce Trail proceeded down a treed access
lane past open agricultural fields.
Rest and Refreshment
Break
At the
southern boundary of the Nottawaga Bluffs region, which was about 16 kilometres
into the day’s trek, we came to the check-in point. Here, thanks to the thoughtful work of
volunteers a rest station complete with cold drinks and sugary treats was set
up for End-to-End hikers to enjoy throughout the day. Upon arrival at these points, hikers check in,
have their time of arrival recorded, and can sit down to enjoy a short rest
break and a chat. As always, we were
thankful for the amazing work of the volunteers, which is of incalculable help,
and is a wonderful source of relief for those walking.
Nottawasaga Bluffs
Conservation Area
Nottawasaga Bluffs
Conservation Area is a 400-acre protected area whose property is a mixture of hardwood
and coniferous forest, meadows, grasslands, and dolostone cliffs. In addition, Nottawasaga Bluffs hosts a
number of trails which are accessible year-round for hiking and cross-country
skiing.
Walking into Nottawasaga Bluffs, we began by entering a dense
forest where our very narrow trail turned somewhat westward and soon led us
through open fields and grassy meadows. The tail would continue this process of
weaving into cedar forests, taking us along property lines, down access roads,
and into marshy terrain for much of our time there. Eventually, the BTC turned east, where we found
ourselves navigating along an abandoned lane, which was extraordinarily torn up
and very muddy throughout.
Once again back in a cedar forest, we found the remains of a historic
lime kiln – which we had last seen in Limehouse several hikes ago. Such kilns were used to melt down quarried
dolostone into lime, which in turn was used in construction. According to online resources, it would take
almost three days for the kiln to reach the needed temperature to be operated. As a result, at one point, the vast majority
of the region’s trees were eventually cut down to feed the fires, which
explains the extensive logging roads throughout the property. Such industrial regions often led to the
development of small communities, which by the early twentieth century began to
decline as advancements in other fields changed construction needs.
Keyholes and Crevice
Continuing to weave through Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area, we
found ourselves at the crossroads of a number of side trails, and Sean’s curiosity
got the better of him. As we took a quick break, had a quick drink from our
water bottles, and enjoyed the cool drafts of air emanating from the rocks and
crevices below, he flipped through the BTC Guidebook to see where the various
alternative paths led. It was at this
time that one of the amazing Bruce Trail volunteers helping with this weekend’s
event stopped next to us. Seeing our
interest in the nearby Keyhole Side Trail, he noted that the valley below was
one of the most challenging sections of the Bruce system. He explained to us that if we followed the
blue blazes, they would lead us through a tour of the area’s unique geography,
with sections that would allow us to walk through canyons, explore the escarpment,
and require us to take off our backpacks and slowly slip through tight rocky
crevices. According to him, one crack is
so narrow only a child or an extremely fit person could slip through without
getting stuck. While tempted to explore,
we still had a long way to go on today’s organized trek and could again hear
the sweep calling out to people to keep walking. As such, we hiked on, knowing that we would
have to come back one day to explore more.
Camping on the Bruce
Trail
Heading southward, and now having come almost back to the point where we
had entered the park, we again felt that there were some sections of the Bruce
Trail that make you feel like you are walking a giant circle. Indeed, our route
on the Alltrails app now suggests
that we have done just that, as we have been taken to practically every corner
of the Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area. Oh well, we are out here to walk,
not to be finished walking.
Beyond the Betty Carter Side Trail, we passed a rare sight – an
established legal campsite on the Bruce Trail!
Anyone who has ever contemplated hiking the BTC from Queenston Heights
to Tobermory will undoubtedly be aware of the challenges involved. This route, while naturally beautiful,
geologically fascinating, and amazing to trek, has extremely few easy points to
resupply and there are almost no camping facilities on or near the trail. As a result, one can only thru-hike by
getting help, spending long periods walking off trail, or by wild camping en
route – an activity that is highly discouraged by the BTC.
Freedom Rock and Best
Caves
Hiking along the rim of the escarpment, we next arrived at a location
noted on our maps as Freedom Rock and Best Caves. Much like the Keyhole crevices, both of these
geological features are off the trail, and so we saw neither. According to the BTC guidebook, Freedom Rock
is found just off of the main trail and is a 50-60 meter rock that was an
outcropping which has broken off the escarpment.
In addition, nearby are a series of crevasses in the ground throughout
the forest. These geological features
are popularly known as Best Caves. This
system of crevices was named for the previous owner of the property. According to online sources “The Well” is one
of the most impressive caves – with its entrance marked by faint red and yellow
blazes and reaching depths of more than 10 meters. Once again however the realities of the day,
and the distances we still needed to travel, pushed us to walk on and leave any
further exploration for another occasion.
Ganaraska Trail
Our route
again turned, taking us eastward along the escarpment and boxing around private
property lines. At this point, a huge
rainstorm began, bringing with it a mixture of relief from the day’s built-up
heat, and dismay at having to hike while wet.
We were all soon drenched as we walked through open fields, without rain
gear, and pushing through rain-soaked grasses.
Within minutes the trail had turned to mud, leaving us to trudge along
the unimproved roadway (or possibly abandoned logging road) as we squelched
onward. Soaked to the skin, we were surprised when we met up with a new set of
signage for the Ganaraska Hiking Trail.
Like the Oak Ridges Moraine Trail, the Ganaraska Hiking Trail is a
long-distance pathway that crosses a large portion of Ontario. Presently, it spans some 500 kilometres from
Port Hope on the shores of Lake Ontario to this intersection with the BTC near
Collingwood. Much like the Bruce Trail,
the Ganaraska system has side trails and is divided into local clubs that
maintain it. Interested in this trail
system, and uninterested in walking on in wet clothes, we took a few moments
with our thoughts straying down this unknown (to us) trail way, wondering what
adventures it might have to offer.
With our daydreaming over, and with only 5.5 kilometres left, we were
soon moving on. After all, today’s trek
wouldn't hike itself.
Devil’s Glen
Following the edge of the escarpment, the Bruce Trail soon took us
steeply downhill into the Devil’s Glen.
In terms of our pathway, this section is comprised of four parts. First is a switchbacking descent along the
southern escarpment to the Mad River waterway below. Second comes a walk along the Mad River at
the base of the valley. Third is a steep
ascent up to and through the Devil’s Glen Country Club. And fourth is a walk through Devil’s Glen
Provincial Park – which is also our end point for today! Our challenging 3
kilometres of trekking there would take us through each of these areas.
The Devil’s Glen region is a geological wonder, combining the glacial
meltwater erosion that formed the Mad River Gorge and the landscape sitting on
the terrace known as the Manitoulin Bedrock Lodge. This area is also one of the highest points
on the Niagara Escarpment, reaching over 500 meters above sea level. Furthermore, according to local signage,
about 4 km northwest of this point along the Sighampton Moraine is the highest
location in Southern Ontario, at approximately 546 meters above sea level.
Descending into Devil’s Glen, the trail switch-backed down the steep
escarpment through a dense conifer forest.
At the bottom of the valley, we followed along the shores of the rushing
Mad River, which we crossed over via the Country Club Bridge. Now on the northern shore, we began an
equally steep ascent of the other side of the valley. Thankfully, in this portion, we enjoyed the
benefit of a number of wooden staircases.
Once again at the top of the Niagara Escarpment, a tough and vigorous challenge
at the end of the day, the Bruce Trail wove us around the Devil’s Glen Country
Club property. Our route took us through
the resort, past the main building, and along a new neighbourhood before
turning west toward the provincial park.
Reflecting at day’s end
Exhausted, we emerged from Devil’s Glen Provincial Park to find 4 school
buses lined up on the 10th Concession waiting to pick up a group of
sweaty, tired, rain-drenched trekkers.
We checked in and collapsed onto the ground to enjoy a few minutes off
our feet while drinking cold refreshments.
We all took the opportunity to change out of our wet hiking socks into a
dry pair, although unfortunately we nonetheless had to put our drenched shoes
back on.
While sitting waiting to be loaded onto the bus and taken back to our
car, we reflected on the day’s trek, which we had pushed through at a fast
pace. While it was a beautiful region,
the heat of the day, combined with the long exposed stretches and undulating
landscape, made for a physically demanding hike. In addition, this morning's demand by the
sweep that we march at high speed through the End-to-End event meant that we
took little time to enjoy the walk or explore the region. As such, while we are glad to be done another
part of the Bruce Trail, we feel as though it passed in a blur, and that we
have little sense of it.
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