Hike 37: Break from the Bruce Trail - Cape Chin to Mountain Trout Camp

BTC Preparations and Considerations

There is no denying that a night in a bed and a warm shower can change your perspective of the world as well as what you are capable of.  After a long run over three days on the Bruce Trail we decided to stay in a B&B in Cape Chin last night and treat ourselves.  We were blessed when our hosts picked us up from the trail yesterday, helped us do our laundry and dry out our gear, and then generously returned us to the BTC this morning. 

According to our hosts, a couple who have also trekked the Bruce Trail, we are now only a short distance from Tobermory and the northern terminus of the trail.  Via the road we are about 40 kilometres away.  However, by trail we are still some 66 kilometres from our goal.  While this may not sound like much, we now are entering into a stretch that is considered to be both rugged and challenging.  

 

 

Our situation this morning then was to either walk 20 kilometres from Cape Chin South to Mountain Trout Campground, or 36 kilometres to the High Dump campsite.  Given the options, and with no desire to attempt illegally wild camping in Bruce National Park, or accidentally stumble across a rattlesnake while doing so, we decided to take the short option. In order to ensure that we could get a camping site for tonight, we called ahead this morning to Mountain Trout to reserve a space before setting back out onto the trail.  This made our day one of the shortest we have taken on our Bruce Trail thru-hike so far, but it helped us prepare for the final push through Bruce National Park to Tobermory.

Returning to the Bruce Trail

As mentioned, our hosts were absolute trail angels.  With our gear and cloths both cleaned and dried out, we packed up this morning, only to receive more kindness.  Our hosts were not only taking us back to the Bruce Trail but they suggested that that we slack pack the 8-10 kilometres from Cape Chin South back to their place.  This meant that we could take it easy for the first 2 hours of hiking this morning as we made our way back to Cape Chin North.   

 

 

 Our decision to go back and trek the 10 kilometres of trail from our point of departure yesterday was not well received by the younger member of our group.  Indeed, he only finally agreed after being was persuaded by the copious amounts of bacon and eggs which were provided for him this morning.  With breakfast completed, we were driven back to the trail and soon on our way once again.

Slack packing the Marshlands

In the guidebook, the Cape Chin region is divided on the map into two sections, Cape Chin South and Cape Chin North.  In between, the Bruce Trail weaves inland away from the shoreline of Georgian Bay, past a large swampy pond and marshy region labelled as Cape Chine-Martin, and along gravel roadways.  En route through this region the trail also passes alongside farmer’s fields and down fence lines, several of which contained frequent warnings to avoid farm animals.  While slack packing through this stretch we were incredibly grateful for the wooden boardwalks over the small marshy parts in the fields, as well as for the installed stiles over property fences. The Bruce Trail then wove onto a short stretch of gravel roadway before returning to the shoreline for our final approach into Cape Chin North. 

Cape Chin North … again

Arriving back at our B&B we took a few minutes to use the facilities and enjoy another cup of coffee before  preparing to continue down the trail for the second half of our short day.   Picking up our backpacks, we were stunned to be given fresh apples to take with us – a welcome treat as fresh vegetables (last night’s dinner) and fresh fruit (today’s treat) are rare and treasured items to enjoy on thru-hikes!   

Thanking our amazing hosts for all their kindnesses, we said our goodbyes and set out for our trek along Dyer’s Bay toward tonight’s destination.  Leaving Cape Chin, the trail wandered down the very narrow gravel Borchardt Rd for about a kilometre before ending in a designated BTC parking area. 

Devils’ Monument

After almost an hour of walking on the road it was nice to be back on path once again, as it already felt as though today was going to be really hot.   Our route returned to the forest and rocky terrain of the escarpment along the coast, but the trail was wide and obviously well used.   Navigating through the forest, the short hike from the roadway to Devil’s Monument was rocky and steep.   This stretch was also full of people visiting the region who were slowly (oh so slowly) walking down the trail.  In our slow moving conga line of walkers we soon reached the cliff edge, which we then followed, weaving amid mossy rocks to the iconic Devil’s Monument.

Reaching a fenced wooden platform with an interpretive plaque, we could see Devil’s Monument in front of us.  Unfortunately, given the crowds of visitors, we largely walked straight through this stretch with little interest in navigating the large groups of day explorers.   According to the installed plaque and the Bruce Trail guidebook the Devil’s Monument is also known as the Devil’s Pulpit.  From what we saw, and from local descriptions, Devil’s Monument is perhaps best described as a vase shaped pillar of stratified rock.  It is estimated to have been formed about 5500 years ago, and is the result of water erosion by Lake Nipissing, a glacial predecessor of Georgian Bay.  It is approximately 14 meters or 44 feet tall and has been designated an Area of Natural and Scientific Interest by the province of Ontario as a preserved flowerpot. 

 Geologically, this feature is known as a flowerpot, which is formed when waves and ice erode the soft limestone strata of the escarpment over many millennia.  This fluvial action initially carves a cave into the escarpment, and then leads to the formation of an arch of stone which later collapses, leaving a strong pillar of dolostone rock standing on the shoreline.  Over time, these features accumulate enough soil on top to facilitate growth of several of the region’s hardy cedars.  As a result, these structures often look like rocky pots with vegetation growing out of them – hence they became known as Flowerpots. 

Devil’s Monument is noted as the tallest of these rock formations along the Bruce Peninsula, but this fact is not often acknowledged.  Given the density of trees and foliage around its base, the height of the flower pot tends to distort its actual size, whereas similar formations on Flowerpot Island in Fathom Five National Marine Park are situated along the shoreline of Georgian Bay and hence appear larger in size and scope.  Indeed, some hikers have suggested that the Devil’s Monument stretch of the Bruce Trail is by far more impressive when seen in the winter due to the lack of foliage at that time.

Ridge Walking and Desire Lines

North of the Devil’s Monument the Bruce Trail continued toward Dyer’s Bay, leaving the crowds behind and getting somewhat rockier in the process.  Ultimately, we spent much of the 5-6 kilometre ridge walking along the edge of the escarpment.  While generally easy to navigate, there were undeniably sections which were extremely rocky and somewhat overgrown – a fact which lead us to watch our feet once again as we pushed on.  

Where the trail strayed away from the edge of the escarpment, people had cut paths creating new lookouts.  For trail builders, these self-made routes are termed “desire paths” or “desire lines”.  Popularly, they are often referred to as “game trails” or “social trails”.  Regardless of what they are called however, they are unplanned small pathways created as a result of constant human or animal traffic toward what is believed to be “the shortest route between a place of origin and the destination”.  Put another way, desire lines are convenient shortcuts which tread out natural vegetation, erode away ground cover, and degrade soil quality.  These self-made routes can also undermine local natural wonders and lead hikers to get into trouble as they ignore the rationale of trail builders.

Escarpment Biosphere Conservancy

Grateful for the dense forest canopy as the sun got warmer and warmer, we trekked on.  At one point, as the trail wove through a stand of conifers, we passed signs for a Nature Reserve and the Escarpment Biosphere Conservancy (EBC).  Not knowing much about this ground, we later investigated.

The EBC is a charity whose mission is

“…to establish, maintain and manage a system of nature preserves in the area of the Niagara Escarpment (including the Niagara Escarpment World Biosphere Reserve), including the maintenance of physical features of scientific and/or ecological, cultural, historic or scenic interest; to maintain, enhance or restore areas of native species or natural habitat and; to encourage and support scientific research and educational services related thereto.”

Part of their efforts work to educate the public about conservation and the protection of the landscape and wildlife of the Niagara Escarpment.  Interesting and wonderful work!

Michiganders Arch

Trekking north, we soon came across a unique geological formation – an arch.  According to the guidebook and maps, this stone formation is called the Michiganders Arch and was named after the group of people who donated the property to the Bruce Trail to conserve and protect.  Having not taken a break yet today, we took the opportunity to slip off our backpacks and enjoy our apples.  While relaxing, our youngest family member could not resist climbing back and forth under the precarious stone span.  Watching someone deliberately wedge themselves between so much stone brought to mind those intrepid individuals who explore caves – an activity that I find fascinating and terrifying all at once.  

 

 

 Excursion around Dyer’s Bay

Feeling refreshed, and with the interest in wedging through tight spaces having been satisfied, we pushed on.  Picking up our backpacks and tying our boot laces back up, we followed the escarpment edge overlooking the beautiful, clear, turquoise, water.  We soon crossed a local roadway which leads down into the community of Dyer’s Bay, which is largely a neighborhood of cottages.  After this, the trail became a narrow dirt track that wove amid dense foliage as we passed through an area which the BTC guidebook named as the Laird Property. 

 

 

Again following the escarpment coastline, the trail was easy to find and follow, save for the fact that we both worried that the junior member of our group would accidentally slip, trip, or fall while trekking so close to the edge.  Thankfully, a week of experience on the Bruce Trail had taught him to watch his footing and he did well throughout.  

At the Harkins Rd Side Trail and BTC parking area the trail cut inland amid a deciduous forest and dense ferns.  We soon found ourselves passing by marshes and navigating the water saturated landscape.  This boggy stretch was short lived however, and we soon found ourselves following a wide dirt track before connecting with a gravel roadway.  

Mountain Trout Campground

Arriving to Lindsay Rd, which the Bruce Trail would follow for the next 8 kilometres, our short day of hiking was near to its conclusion.  Here, instead of venturing south to the boundaries of Bruce Peninsula National Park we turned north, walking to a private campground and our destination for the day. 

Walking up to the Mountain Trout Campground, we were stunned at how wonderful the facilities were, and how welcoming the hosts were.  During check-in we discovered that the owners had just purchased the campground and were in the process of renovating it and transforming it into a family orientated summer vacation space.  The hosts were kind enough to take us around the property, showing off the new facilities, the large dock, and the swimming area.   

Making our way to our camp site, we set up our tent under the watchful eye of a cute cat who did his best to investigate everything.  Afterwards we took our showers, washed and hung up our hiking clothes, and luxuriated at a picnic table while enjoying ice creams and iced teas.  As afternoon progressed into evening, two other campers spotted our younger companion and brought over a box of graham crackers, marshmallows, and chocolate bars for us to make S’mores on the campfire tonight!  With everything taken care of, we set about making arrangements for the next and final couple of days on the Bruce Trail.  As such, despite having so much time to rest, we ultimately spent almost two hours on the phone with Parks Canada staff, trying to figure out back-country camping and get permits for the next couple of nights in Bruce Peninsula National Park.  We were fortunate to get a permit at High Dump for tomorrow night (though we had hoped for Halfway Dump) and then Cyprus Lake for the next night. 

Reflecting on the Bruce Trail

While uncertain this morning about the decision to take a short day on the Bruce Trail, I can admit that it was a welcome reprieve after a number of tough treks from Owen Sound to Wiarton and beyond.  It was also certainly nice to enjoy the break before tackling what promises to be a challenging trek across the Bruce Peninsula National Park over the next couple of days.  Today might well have been one of our best hiking days ever.  Particular highlights of the day included beginning with huge breakfasts this morning, being able to slack pack the first 10 kilometres of trail, and enjoying the natural beauty of Devil’s Monument and Dyer’s Bay.  

In closing, I would also like to address some of the comments we’ve received, that our blog of this thru hike “lacks in details” and is “repetitive” as it is constantly focused on “corridors of trees and rocky landscapes”.   About all I can say is that that I will freely admit that the rocky terrain of the Bruce Trail in the Peninsula section has indeed begun to blur.  Even today, reflecting back as I write today’s blog journal, I can tell that specific single moments on the trail have fused into a continuous memory of treed corridors, escarpment lookouts, and panoramic perspectives down the coastline. 

So, if our descriptions have begun to sound monotonous or repetitive I deeply apologize.  The BTC has done a great job keeping the route off roadways and in forested stretches.  In addition, this region is rocky by nature, which results in us spending most of our time watching our footing rather than being able to look around.  Beyond this, there are only so many “spectacular views” that one can describe. Some things just have to be done rather than read about to be truly appreciated.

We can only hope that our amazing experiences on the Bruce Trail inspire others to come out and hike it for themselves.