Exploring the Fort to Fort Trail : Fort Erie to Niagara Falls

Exploring the Fort to Fort Trail

Fort Erie Ontario

If you're a nature enthusiast or a history buff, the Fort to Fort Trail and Niagara Parkway Trail offer one of the most captivating hiking experiences in Canada. Stretching across the Niagara region from Fort Erie to Niagara-on-the-Lake, this 57 km local pathway and section of the Trans Canada Trail (TCT) blends stunning natural beauty with a rich historical backdrop. 

As part of the iconic Great Trail, the Fort to Fort Trail—also known as the Niagara Parkway Recreation Trail and the Freedom Trail—offers hikers an unforgettable journey through both the past and present.

Exploring Historic Fort Erie

Given that we had set out on what was at times termed the ‘Fort to Fort Trail’ we felt that it was appropriate to begin with a tour of the fort itself.  Old Fort Erie, a British fortification dating back to the War of 1812, stands as a testament to the region's military past.  Though the present site is the fourth fortification on this location, the fort’s pentagonal layout and earthworks nonetheless offer a glimpse into the area's strategic importance. A visit to the fort provided us a chance to explore barracks, guardrooms, and a memorial to those who fought and died during the 1814 siege by American troops in the War of 1812.

Trekking the Fort to Fort Trail

Intrigued by the history of the Niagara Region, we set out to hike the pathway, with the goal of walking from Fort Erie to Niagara Falls today. From the fort's gates, the trail crossed over Lakeshore Rd to the banks of the Niagara River. Heading north, the accessible paved path, ideal for both walkers and cyclists, followed the river’s edge, offering scenic views of the waterway and international border. 

  

Soon after beginning we passed an imposing structure known as Mather Arch set in the middle of a well-landscaped roundabout.  The Mather Arch was built in 1939 and is dedicated to Alonzo Mather, the architect of the International Peace Bridge, which is situated nearby.  This monument also serves as a symbol of cooperation between Canada and the United States who share the world’s longest peaceful international border.  In the same park green space, a War Cenotaph stands which is dedicated to the memory of veterans who served in World War I, World War II, and the Korean conflict. 

Continuing northward, the Fort to Fort Trail is routed under the metal spans of the Peace Bridge, which crosses both the Niagara River and the international border between the United States and Canada.  Later we traced the sidewalks of the town of Fort Erie through the centre of town past local shops, pubs and restaurants. En route, we were amazed as almost every storefront and parkette had a historic plaque.   

The Freedom Trail and Black Canadian History

The Niagara Parkway and Fort to Fort Trails are more than just a hiking pathway or scenic route; they are also a route of profound cultural importance. Key to this is the history related to the Freedom Trail which is designed and dedicated to furthering people’s understanding of the role the area played in the Underground Railroad and Black Canadian History.  In particular, it provides a means through which to explore the substantial contributions that escaped slaves, Black British, Black Loyalists, and Black Canadians made to the region throughout its history.    

Journeying along the trail, we continued to spot a number of historical markers detailing the area’s vital role in the Underground Railroad.  These markers and sites included Freedom Park, The Crossing, and the Bertie Street Ferry Landing which highlight the struggles and triumphs of thousands of enslaved peoples who sought freedom by crossing the Niagara River.  

Among these was a plaque dedicated to ‘The Crossing’ detailed the ferry system which navigated the Niagara River from 1796 until 1950, across the international boundary between Buffalo New York and Fort Erie Ontario.  Given its location, this area is one of the most important terminus of the Underground Railroad.  This secret system helped individuals and families escape from slavery and get north and into Canada.  Historians estimate that between 35,000 and 40,000 Black individuals escaped and assured their freedom in the Niagara Region.  Here, local townspeople aided in the escape of slaves and their families throughout the nineteenth century.  

Soon after Freedom Park, we noticed a plaque between two buildings noting that the cheesemaker James L. Kraft was educated and had worked locally.   Kraft, whose name is recognizable from grocery stores across Canada, would later go on to open a cheese factory and develop a new revolutionary pasteurization process which allowed cheeses to be shipped over long distances without spoiling.  Although his factory was based in Buffalo, his roots and the early foundations of his career trace back to Niagara, a testament to the area's influence on the food industry.

Our route continued northward, and we again crossed under a bridge linking our two nations. Not long after, the trail crossed under a steel-beamed train bridge connecting Canada and the United States, a reminder of how connected our two nations are. 

Continuing our hike, the next site we came across was Bertie Hall, a stunning red-brick mansion with towering white columns. This historic building, once a warehouse in the 1800s, also served as a “safe house” for escaping slaves seeking freedom in Canada. Despite the abolition of slavery in Canada, American bounty hunters frequently searched the region in an attempt to capture escaped individuals. The metalwork symbol of a fleeing slave on-site is a moving tribute to the courage of those who sought refuge here.

Following the Niagara Blvd roadway, we eventually arrived at Bowen Road Park, home to one of the Trans Canada Trail Pavilions which are situated across the nation. This pavilion marks an important rest stop on the trail, which runs from the Atlantic to the Pacific to the Arctic across the country. Afterwards, the Fort to Fort trail followed the shoulder of a local roadway.  Thankfully we were able to take a break under some of the larger trees on the edges of people’s properties.   However, we soon realized that our largest challenge for the day was not going to be the route but would instead be finding a way to stay and cool off along the nearly shade-less trek to Niagara Falls.   At this point, even though it was still early in the day, the heat of the summer was already high and being reflected back at us by the paved walkway and pavement of the roads.  

Indeed, it was while seeking refuge from the sun under the trees on the shoreline of the Niagara River that we came across a pair of beautiful glowing white Great Egrets with their telltale yellow beaks and black legs! Here we found one of the majestic birds wading in the shallow water a few feet off the shore, while another sat in the tree above us!

As we moved along the trail, we crossed over a bridge spanning Frenchman’s Creek, a tributary of the Niagara River.  This area is steeped in history, with the creek running past the site of a failed American invasion during the War of 1812.  In addition, we also caught sight of a flock otherwise known as a ‘gulp’ of Double-Crested Cormorants in the trees.

Given the heat, we soon moved off the main trail and began to trek on the periodically treed green space paralleling the side of the road. 

With the day increasingly getting warmer we soon arrived at Miller’s Bay where we took the opportunity to rest at one of the picnic benches.  Here, we found an unassuming plaque that tells the story of ‘Little Africa,’ a community of Black Canadians in the region in the 1840s. These early settlers, many of whom were Black Loyalists, significantly contributed to local industries such as lumber, railways, and shipbuilding. This lesser-known chapter of Niagara’s history is a powerful reminder of the diverse contributions that shaped the region.  

Venturing onward, we followed the Niagara Parkway road which paralleled the shore. Crossing over the Black Creek we ventured past the Niagara Christian Collegiate and Riverside Community Church, as well as the Willoughby Historical Museum.  Having circumnavigated the boundaries of the Legends on the Niagara Golf Course, given the meandering nature of the waterway and paralleling trail, we could now see Niagara Falls in the distance!

Heartened that the day’s destination was in site we pushed on.   Across from the Niagara River, we could see Navy Island National Historical Site.  From 1761 to 1764 this island was a British shipyard building the first British vessels to sail the upper Great Lakes.  It was an essential outpost during the Pontiac uprising from 1763-1764, and briefly served as the declared seat of the Republic of Canada for William Lyon Mackenzie’s exiled government during the Rebellion of 1837.  

Years later, following the Second World War, Navy Island, was considered as a viable location for the headquarters of the United Nations on a neutral territory.  Today it is an uninhabited forested island and an archaeological site managed by Parks Canada.

Rounding the Legends of Niagara Golf Course we next arrived at the Chippawa Battlefield National Historic Site, marked by a small stone obelisk and historic plaque. This site commemorates the Battle of Chippawa, which took place on July 5th, 1814, during the War of 1812. Here, American forces defeated British troops but would later be defeated in the Battle of Lundy’s Lane before withdrawing to Fort Erie.  

Natural Beauty and Wildlife Along the Niagara River 

As we navigated the trail and with our goal for the day in sight, we pushed on past the subdivisions on the outskirts of the city of Niagara Falls.   Here the trail crossed over the Welland River on a narrow walkway, taking us into Kingsbridge Park, past the various local hydro facilities and vast parking lots, and into the Dufferin Islands Nature Area.  

Given the heat of the day, we took a few moments to rest in the shade on the park benches.  Never had sitting felt so good.  As it turns out, the Niagara Parkway Trail is a haven for birdwatching and wildlife observation. We have seen a number of species already today including Great Egrets, Double-crested Cormorants, and a variety of waterfowl. The Dufferin Islands Nature Area provided tons of opportunities to observe the abundant birdlife in the area.

Niagara Falls and National Parks 

Continuing down the trail we passed an imposing structure on the banks of the Niagara River.  This sprawling complex with a brick façade is the former Toronto Power Generating Station, which is now an abandoned hydroelectric plant spanning much of the nearby shoreline.

As the trail moved along the banks of the river way, we soon found ourselves being covered in a mist which descended throughout the region.  Soon after we arrived at the world-renowned Niagara Falls.  The majestic Horseshoe Falls, part of the three waterfalls that make up Niagara Falls, is an awe-inspiring sight. Interestingly Niagara Falls is actually composed of a series of three waterfalls including Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, and the Bridal Veil Falls which span the Canada-U.S. border and the Niagara River. 

The Canadian Falls, or the Horseshoe Falls, spans between the Canadian shoreline at Table Rock and Goat Island on the American side.  As such the iconic image of Niagara Falls is primarily in Canada according to the international border detailed in 1819 in the Treaty of Ghent.  This impressive waterfall is estimated to be about 170 ft (52 m) tall and 2700 ft (820 m) wide.  However, these numbers are gradually changing as the falls slowly move owing to erosion. 

Information at the Table Rock Information Centre estimated that about 90% of the Niagara River flows over Horseshoe Falls, while the remaining 10% flows over the American and Bridal Veil Falls.  While Niagara Falls is not the largest waterfall in the world, it is the biggest in terms of the sheer volume of water which flows over it which is estimated to be about 750,000 gallons of water every second.  

We took our time enjoying Niagara Falls from the vantage point of Table Rock.  The information center located here is named for the flat rock which was previously on this site and which jutted out into the water.  This site is also important as it was privately owned until 1885 and included high fences and buildings which blocked the view of the falls to anyone who refused to pay for the privilege of seeing it.  In response, the Niagara Parks Commission was established in 1888 as part of an international effort to preserve the natural scenery of the region, as well as to allow access for visitors to view the falls.

Having finally arrived at our destination for the day, we took the opportunity to cool off by taking a Journey Behind the Falls.

After walking the narrow, wet, walkways behind the thundering falls, we ventured down the paved pathway and walking promenade along the river gorge.  This popular spot provides visitors with magnificent views of Niagara Falls and allows anyone to admire both the Canadian Horseshoe Falls and the American Bridal Veil Falls!  

As you stand at the edge of Niagara Falls, you’re not just witnessing the power of nature—you’re experiencing a significant part of North America’s cultural and natural heritage. In the early to mid-nineteenth century, the area around Niagara Falls was viewed by travellers, European tourists, and travel publications as disastrously privatized and overly commercialized - to the point of undermining the natural beauty of the region. In this way, the Niagara region quickly became a symbol of tacky over-development and privatization from which support for public protected spaces and National Parks arose across the world.  As a result, similar places of natural wonder were held in trust for public use and enjoyment for all time rather than as the property of the few.   The goal of these public spaces and National Parks was to preserve the splendour of a site by preventing the same thing happening to areas of natural beauty and significance so that they continued to exist “for the benefit and enjoyment of the people” for all time. 

Maid of the Mist and Skylon Tower 

Beyond the falls as we walked along the gorge we could also see the iconic Maid of the Mist boat tours down below, crowded with people as they venture near the base of the powerful Falls thundering overhead!  In the past, we have ventured on one of these amazing tours. Today, however, we simply enjoyed our time throughout this stretch, relaxing in the shade and partaking of an ice cream (or two) to celebrate the completion of our first day’s hike. 

Departing from the Fort to Fort and Niagara Recreational Trail for the day, we wandered into town to eat and visit the Skylon Tower which would allow us to get a view of the Falls from above!

While amazing, the fact remains that walking into Niagara Falls and Clifton Hills after a day on the trail into the hustle and bustle of the vibrant tourist district we were overwhelmed. For two exhausted hikers, the flashing lights, video screens, and music on the streets were a bit much for two exhausted hikers. 

Reflecting on our Hike Through Niagara 

Our hike along the Fort to Fort and Niagara Parkway Trails was an unforgettable experience, blending history, culture, and natural beauty. From Imperial forts and Black Canadian History to the peaceful birdwatching spots, and finally to Niagara Falls, this trail offers something for everyone. 

With our day coming to an end, and our energy drained, we ventured to the nearby KOA campground for the evening, set up camp, and rested for the night in preparation for continuing on the next day to Fort Erie. 

To read more about Black Canadian History in the Niagara Region check out this article by : EH CANADA TRAVEL. 

See you on the Trail!