Exploring the Niagara
Parkway Trail: Niagara Falls to Niagara-on-the-Lake
A
Journey Through Nature and History
The Niagara Parkway Trail, which runs from Niagara Falls to Niagara-on-the-Lake, offers hikers and cyclists a scenic, historical, and culturally rich experience. It is a regional section of the Trans Canada Trail, also known as the Great Trail.
Our
second day on the Niagara Parkway Trail at the northern end of Niagara Falls
trekking from the KOA Campground, down through Clifton Hill back to
the water’s edge. Clifton Hill is a developed tourist district in the
town of Niagara Falls filled with vibrant attractions like the Niagara SkyWheel
and Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum.
Re-joining
the pathway on the banks of the Niagara River we crossed under the Rainbow International Bridge, and International border services buildings passing
into a quieter residential area. Here
the trail alternated between sidewalks and shaded paths, offering stunning
views of the Niagara Gorge and River.
Throughout
much of the early morning, our route followed the Niagara Parkway weaving along
the edge of the local residential neighbourhoods and lodgings which dotted the
shoreline. The path continued under the Whirlpool Rapids Bridge which
serves as the international connection for passenger trains crossing between
Ontario and New York.
Harriet Tubman
Along this stretch, we also encountered historical
markers and information panels commemorating Harriet Tubman, who crossed
into Canada
on the former suspension bridge in the
same area as the current Whirlpool Bridge. Details of Tubman’s life are
highlighted documenting her life as a slave in Maryland, escaping and crossing
into Canada, and her courageous efforts to help other former slaves find freedom.
Tubman
is an icon of the Underground Railway, who began helping escaped slaves to
Canada after the passage of the U.S. Fugitive Slave Act in 1850 which led to
the hunting, arrest, and kidnapping of former slaves, and free Black persons in
both northern American states and British Canada.
The
actions of Harriet Tubman are of incalculable historical and cultural
importance as the most recognizable conductor of the Underground Railway.
An article from Audubon by Allison Keyes entitled "Harriet Tubman,
an Unsung Naturalist, Used Owl Calls as a Signal on the Underground Railroad explores how
Harriet Tubman was, in fact, an unrecognized naturalist who utilized not only
her knowledge of the region’s environment and wildlife to survive but who also
used owl calls as an as a signal on the Underground Railroad to aid in the
freeing of slaves and to alert slaves seeking freedom on their way north to
Canada as to whether it was safe or not to continue.
Fascinating!
Diversity
Further
along the trail, we passed the unique Ten Thousand Buddhas Sarira Stupa, a
serene Buddhist temple tucked against the backdrop of Niagara's natural beauty.
While we didn’t venture inside, it was a peaceful contrast to the busy roadways
and rail lines.
Whirlpool Aero Car
As
we ventured on we both noticed that the water of the Niagara River, how well
below us in the gorge carved by millennia of erosion, no longer appeared as the
calm river we had followed yesterday. Instead throughout this stretch, it
was a frothing and turbulent scene of whirlpools and rapids that spread through
the narrows.
The
trail route continued to follow the local sidewalk past the seemingly
never-ending stretch of hotels and motels along the Niagara Parkway road. Soon after we came to the Whirlpool Rapids
Gorge and the site of the famous Whirlpool Aero Car. This historic cable car,
originally named the Niagara Spanish Aero Car, was designed by Spanish engineer
Leonardo Torres Quevedo and opened in 1916. A top attraction it
continues, for a small fee, to provide visitors with a unique ride over the
Niagara Gorge.
From
here the trail followed alongside a wonderfully shaded stretch a local park, in
which we enjoyed a few minutes of shade from the sun.
Nature
and Biodiversity: Botanical Gardens and Butterfly Conservatory
Emerging
out of the shaded forest, we were back along the Niagara Parkway where we would
trek alongside a sprawling golf course before intersecting with the other end
of the Whirlpool Aero Car at Thompson’s Point. Here the trail
crossed the Parkway road and took us past the Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens where we took time to explore the stunning landscapes.
Afterwards, we continued on to the Butterfly
Conservatory, paid a small admission and entered. Here, surrounded by hundreds of colourful
butterflies in a lush tropical setting we enjoyed one of largest glass-enclosed
spaces and Conservancies in North America Having spent over an hour touring and
enjoying the various butterflies in the conservatory we headed back onto the
trail.
Power Stations and Floral Clocks
Back
alongside the busy roadway, the trail took us over the impressive Sir
Adam Beck Generating Station, which is both an operating power station and
a National Historic Site. Built in the 1920s and completed in 1930, to
meet the increased demands for electrical power in southern Ontario. It was, at the time, the world’s largest hydroelectric
generating station.
Having
crossed over Sir Adam Beck Generating Station we arrived at the stunning
Niagara Floral Clock. This
large arrangement of flowerbeds is shaped into the image of a large clock
face. This display is changed with the
seasons with violas planted in the spring and traditional perennials being added
in the summer. Built by Ontario Hydro in 1950 and now maintained by
the Niagara Parks Commission, the Niagara Floral Clock at 12 meters in diameter
is one of the largest such displays in the world.
After
admiring the gardens here we ventured back across the Parkway to follow along
the shaded edge of the Trail which took us under the Lewiston-Queenston
bridge, past Canada Border Services Agency, around Locust Grove Picnic
Area, and briefly into Queenston Heights Park.
Exploring
Queenston Heights
Today’s
hike would take us past Queenston Heights, the site of the Battle of Queenston Heights during the War
of 1812 when American soldiers invaded British Canada. While we would be returning to this park
tomorrow to continue westward on the Laura Secord Legacy Trail – a segment of
both the Bruce Trail and Trans Canada Trail – we nonetheless took the
opportunity to explore. Our walk here
took us to Brock’s Monument, which at 56 meters in height, is a towering tribute
to British General Isaac Brock.
Nearby we discovered an Ontario Heritage Foundation plaque detailing the role of a Black militia during the War of 1812. Deemed “The Colored Corps” when conflict broke out between Britain and the United States in 1812, those in the Niagara region of African descent feared for their safety and were forced into slavery. To preserve their freedom, and to prove their loyalty to the crown many Black citizens joined local militias. “The Colored Corps” was composed of approximately 30 men and was commanded by white officers. This unit fought throughout the War of 1812 and in the Battle of Queenston Heights as well as at the Siege of Fort George. Their bravery set a precedent leading to Black units being a part of the British Canadian Military until the First World War.
Having
spent almost an hour enjoying Queenston Heights it was time to continue on.
Historical
Town of Queenston, Legacy of Laura Secord
Knowing
that we would pass through this iconic site again we soon ventured on down a
staircase through a forested space into the historic Town of Queenston. This
community is believed to have been named after John Graves Simcoe’s
regiment the Queen’s Rangers who were stationed nearby in
1792. The town of Queenston is composed of quaint historic houses, as
well as the Mackenzie Printery,
Newspaper Museum and Laura Secord Homestead though would
have originally also included West or Lower Landing where wharves and
storehouses served as the centre of a shipping and hauling business.
Near
to the edge of town, we came to the Mackenzie Printery and NewspaperMuseum for The Colonial Advocate. Unfortunately, this historic site was not open for us to explore, as
Sean’s academic background was once in Canadian Print Culture with a focus on
many of the first and most influential colonial newspapers. The
building at this location served as the home of William Lyon Mackenzie,
Scotsman, general store owner and newspaper publisher. Mackenzie’s
publication is important in regional and Canadian history for advocating reform
and promoting the establishment of responsible government a position which
served to influence the politics and public opinion of the day.
We
next came to the Laura Secord Homestead which is the
historical estate of Laura and James Secord, both United Empire
Loyalists. Laura Secord, whose route we will follow from Queenston
Heights to St. Catharines tomorrow is similar to the one she trod while,
risking her own life on June 22, 1813 when she covered 19 miles to convey
information on American military activities to the British Commander, Captain
Fitzgibbon at DeCew farmhouse. Her actions and the information she
carried were used to aid in the British victory at Beaver Dams. Laura
Secord is held as one of Canada’s heroines and exemplary women who contributed
to the history of the nation. Her house and this site were restored in
1971 to serve as an educational centre.
Wineries,
Historic Sites, and Scenic Views
Throughout
much of the next stretch, the Niagara Parkway Trail wove alongside the roadway
through Ontario’s famed wine country.
Here the landscape changed and we were soon trekking amid the sprawling
wineries with their expansive vineyards.
Estates with names such as Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs, and Reif
emblazoned on large gates and large wine-making complexes now covered the
region’s agricultural lands.
From
time to time the path veered into green spaces and woodlands along the
riverbanks providing us with welcome relief from the day’s heat.
At
one point we took a break at Walker’s Country Market, a popular stopping point
for fruits, vegetables and cold refreshments. Here we enjoyed a
moment in the shade of the Living Water Wayside Chapel, which claims to be the Guinness
World Record holder for being the world’s smallest chapel and can hold about 6
people at a time
Refreshed
we continued our trek along the Niagara Parkway and not long after arrived
at the McFarland House historical site and Tea
Room. This Georgian-style residence was built in 1800 by John
McFarland and is one of the oldest surviving structures in the Niagara
region. During the War of 1812, it was utilized as a hospital site by
both the British and American forces. In
the 21st century, MacFarland House is used by the Niagara Parks
Commission as a visitor’s centre dedicated to teaching guests about the history
of the period.
Our
route next took us through McFarland Park and through the blissfully shaded
treed stretch of the Niagara Parkway Recreational Trail to the edge of Fort
George and the town of Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Forts
of Niagara-on-the-Lake : Fort George
The trail soon wove through the outskirts of Niagara-on-the-Lake, known for its Victorian charm, wonderful restaurants, and beautiful main street. On the edge of town, we arrived at Fort George National Historic Site walking around the fortifications to the Park’s Canada entrance.
Fort
George was established at the order of Lieutenant Governor John Simcoe between
1796 and 1799. It was meant as a
replacement for Fort Niagara which had been abdicated to the newly formed
United States government.
At the outset of the 19th century with the outbreak of the War of 1812 Fort George served as the headquarters for Major-General Brock and was used as a military outpost that defended Upper Canada against American attacks. In 1813 it was captured by the Americas but was later retaken by the British in December of the same year. Though recaptured, with the cessation of hostilities between Britain and America the damaged fort was not maintained and was soon abandoned in 1814. The property was named a National Historic Site of Canada in 1921 and during the 1930s a reconstruction of the original fort was undertaken.
With
only a few kilometres of hiking left for the day, we decided to spend a few
hours exploring Fort George, its defensive earthworks, battlements and cannon
positions. In addition, we also toured
the fort’s blockhouses, gunpowder magazine and officer’s quarters. Later, we were also lucky to be able to watch
a historic re-enactment culminating in the firing of period guns by Parks
Canada staff dressed as British Red Coat Soldiers.
Niagara-on-the-Lake
Heading
out and only a short walk further on we trekked through Niagara-on-the-Lake, which is a beautiful Victorian
and Loyalist town site, most frequently associated with its stunning downtown,
the iconic Prince of Wales Hotel, and the Shaw Festival Theatre.
In
town, we took the opportunity to stray from the pathway and visit the Parliament Oak School, which was once
the site of the colony’s first parliament. It was in this
location that on May 21st, 1793 Upper Canada’s first Governor
General, John Graves Simcoe, issued the Act to Limit Slavery (1793). Historical
accounts suggest that Simcoe was inspired upon hearing of a British Canadian
slave owner selling a Black woman to an American. It is believed
that while Simcoe had hoped to eliminate slavery, the reality was that many of
his colleagues as Loyalists who had moved from America during the revolution
also owned and brought their slaves with them. As a result, he
compromised and proposed banning the expansion of slavery and preventing the
introduction of new slaves while allowing those who were already in slavery to
remain so. The Act to Limit Slavery was the first such piece
of legislation in British Canada.
Fort Mississauga
Continuing
on through town we walked to the boundary of the Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Club
where the trail would lead us to the shoreline. Here after some
careful navigation around golfers, golf carts and a couple of poorly hit
drives, we arrived at the earthwork fortifications and brick tower of Fort
Mississauga.
This
site, situated on the water’s edge was constructed from 1814-1816 as a
defensive structure protecting the mouth of the Niagara River. Its
construction mirrored the nearby American fortifications of Old Fort Niagara
Light in Youngstown New York – which are easily visible from the Canadian
shoreline.
Reflecting
on the Journey
As
the sun set over Mississauga Beach, we reflected on the many diverse
experiences the Fort to Fort Trail and
Niagara Parkway Trail had to offer. From historical landmarks and
natural wonders to peaceful gardens and iconic sites, this trail connected the
past and present and people to the natural world in a way that few other hiking
routes can.
With
another day hiking at an end and another section of trail completed we arranged
for transportation back to the Niagara Falls KOA and our
campsite. Here we showered, rested and prepared for our next day’s
venture from Queenston Heights to the city of St. Catharines along the Laura Secord Legacy Trail –
a section of the Trans Canada Trail.
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