Hike 12 : Great Hike, Hard Climb - Waterdown to Mount Nemo

Bruce Trail and the Niagara Escarpment

After a long hike on our last visit to the Bruce Trail, today we set smaller goals.  The shorter distance goal for this section was a reflection of the fact that Sean and I are planning to hike across Spain on the Camino Frances in a couple of weeks, and we are therefore practising with our full backpacks today!  This historic pilgrimage route is almost the same length as the Bruce Trail.  However, we were stunned to realize that while the 800 km of the BTC only traverses a tiny portion of Ontario, the Camino ventures the width of an entire European nation.  After about a dozen hikes on the Bruce Trail so far, this is a humbling fact to think about.

 

 

Regardless, back to the present and our hike from Waterdown to Mount Nemo today.  We began by again meeting up this morning with Lenora and following our routine of placing one car at our destination of Cedar Springs Rd, and then returning together to our starting point for the day.   Back on the trail and under the seemingly staggering weight of our loaded backpacks, we set off from the parking lot at the Smokey Hollow side trail.  Thankfully, the morning was cool, with a refreshing breeze providing a nice break from the brutal heat and humidity that the region has been experiencing in previous weeks.  Setting out, we spent our first few minutes weaving through residential streets and between houses before finding our stride in Waterdown Woods.  To our great excitement, the moment our after feet hit the trail we were treated to the sight of a small red fox dashing past!

 

Offa's Dyke Friendship Trail

Here we also saw signs indicating that this stretch of the Bruce Trail was twinned as an International Friendship Trail with the Offa’s Dyke Path in the United Kingdom.   The Offa’s Dyke Path is a National Trail that runs from the Severn River Estuary near Chepstow to the Northern Wales coast of the UK.  This 285 km pathway follows the route of an 8^th century earthen work dyke which is the longest linear earthwork in Britain and is considered an easy long distance route to trek.

According to the BTC website, an International Friendship Trail is used by the Bruce Trail Organization and the World Trails Network to raise awareness of and support for public trails around the globe.  The concept is similar to “twin towns” where regions across the world partner towards mutual cooperation and publicity.  At present, the Bruce Trail has 9 Friendship Trails along its route. 

Citizen Science on the Bruce Trail

We soon passed through Waterdown Woods, and after crossing a couple of roadways we wove through both the Kearncliff and City View Parks, where we enjoyed the shaded green space.  Our nature highlight of the day was found amid this forested stretch when we came across a long brown insect perched on the BTC blaze.  After a quick photograph and submission on iNaturalist we discovered that this fascinating creature is known as a Northern Walkingstick!   

 

 

These remarkable insects use camouflage and the ability to look like a part of a plant or tree to hide themselves.  Despite their unique look, Walkingsticks are not dangerous, do not bite, and do not sting.  There are approximately 3000 species of Walkingsticks around the world, though the Northern Walkingstick is the only one in North America.  These slow moving plant eaters grow to about 4 inches in length, were once considered to be a type of grasshopper, and are most commonly active at night.  So our discovery of one this morning was a special treat!

Highways, Roadways and Pathways

Soon after this amazing discovery the Bruce Trail crossed Dundas St., which made us grateful for the tunnels and overpass bridges on HWY 405, 403 and HWY 6 during our previous treks.  Dundas St. in particular was a very busy 4 lane highway where we waited until the traffic had a lull in it before attempting to quickly scuttle across.  This was a feat that was neither enjoyable nor glamorous with our large backpacks on.

For the next 5 or so kilometres we followed a trail which had a number of fence lines, and as such had perhaps the most stiles that we have ever encountered in a single day of hiking.  Between Cedar Springs Rd and Guelph line we boxed around Fisher’s Pond and navigated up and down the contours of the escarpment without incident or excitement.   Now 10 km into our day’s venture we took a break during which we enjoyed a few snacks and a drink of cold water before continuing on.   While this description does not give the region much credit, the truth is that even the pictures we took don't come close to revealing the subdued colours or true beauty of the rocks, flora, fauna, limestone escarpment, and the area in general has to offer.

This might sound boring, but for us it was far preferable to what came next – a 5 km stretch of roadway trekking.  The long stretches of road are, for us, always unnerving given the difference in pace between ourselves as hikers and the cars racing past.  Thankfully it was not a busy road, and the few drivers that passed us along Walker’s Line were patient - giving us lots of space as they waved and drove on.  Beyond this, the route mostly involved walking along the narrow shoulder of the paved country road past large mansions with high end security and barking dogs.   Little else can be said of this unimaginative stretch of tarmac that divides two amazing portions of the Bruce Trail.  Simply put, these sections make you all that more grateful for the hard work put in by the BCT, its planners, and its volunteers in ensuring that so much of the trail is in fact green space.

Mount Nemo Conservation Area

After a long hour of concession road walking we arrived at the intersection of No 2 Sideroad and Walkers Line, at the base of the escarpment.  Here we ventured to the gates of Mount Nemo Conservation Area, where we enjoyed another brief break, paid our entrance fees, and resumed hiking.  Mount Nemo Conservation Area was established in 1961, when Halton Conservation officials learned of a plan to quarry this section of the escarpment and sought to protect it.  It has since become popular for hikers, birdwatchers, and rock climbers, demonstrating the benefits of green tourism. 

Walking on, we were amazed by the sheer number of colourful summer flowers which dotted the edge of the trail as we began a steep and rocky climb up Mount Nemo.  With our backpacks this section became a tough climb during which we were extremely grateful to have the use of installed wooden ladders en route. 

The rewards of reaching the top of Mount Nemo (beyond the ability to sit and take a break) were two fold.  First, the pathway along the top returned to being a well used hard packed dirt trail with only a few stray tree roots across it to navigate. Second, the views of the surrounding region which the elevation provided were spectacular.  Perhaps the most remarkable views were at Harris Point, from which we could make out the Hamilton, Burlington and Toronto Skylines.   In addition, we could make out the transition in the landscapes from the quaint rustic barns and farms immediately around us to the encroaching urban growth on the horizon.  So vast is the scope of the GTA that it is not hard to imagine a time when this region will be entirely developed and filled with subdivisions.   Beyond these scenic views we also spotted a large number of hawks and vultures soaring along the air currents that were buffeting against the cliffs around us. 

 

 

Continuing along the top of the escapement, the trail took us through a narrow gap in the rocks.  Here we met a number of cave divers, or spelunkers, preparing to explore the region below. Apparently Mount Nemo is a popular destination for spelunkers given the number of caves in the landscape.  In fact, several of the fissures in the rock along the Bruce Trail are connected to these caves.  Unsurprisingly, this also makes the area an ideal habitat for a number of species of bats! Discovering that there were networks of caves below us make us each wish we could understand the geology of the region better.

 

 

 

While there is no denying the natural beauty of the geology and regional landscapes or the terrific views from on top of Mount Nemo, we were disheartened at the number of empty plastic bottles jammed into the crevices and the amount of discarded dog poop bags tossed into trees. 

Clearly (and understandably) this is a busy conservation area in the spring, summer, and fall given its proximity to nearby communities. It would be nice if the regular trail users were inspired to take care of the trail and landscape they so clearly enjoy exploring.

At the same time, we were stunned at the number of people taking selfies on the very edge of the escarpment, and stunned by ladies trekking around in high heels and short skirts along the rocky trail.  Their attire looked more suited to a dance club or a bar.  Ultimately, it all made us wonder: amid the rising popularity of public areas and natural sites, at what point does human enjoyment begin to smother nature?

Debating this topic, we followed the trail along the northern edge of the conservation area where the path took us along a private road and then descended (very steeply) down the side of the escarpment.  Reaching the roadway we called it a day, reclaimed our vehicle, and set off to enjoy a coffee while reflecting on the sights and sounds of today’s trek.

Reflecting on the Bruce Trail 

Today’s adventure along the Bruce Trail seemed to be a mixture of exploring small green spaces, trekking long concession road, and making challenging climbs to enjoy rewarding lookouts.  Amid it all, the pathway moved through a great deal of private property, which made us thankful to local owners for generously allowing hikers to pass through.   Overall, the stretch from Waterdown through Mount Nemo was a great day on the Bruce Trail with lots of lush forests to provide cover from the heat of the day!