Hike 34: Hard Push, Hard Day - Wiarton to Cape Croker Park

Bruce Trail and Logistical Realities

 
After a long day of hiking on the Bruce Trail from Bass Lake campground to Wiarton, we took a day off to rest our bodies and explore the city.  We used this day to bask in the glory of not having to carry our backpacks, and we cleaned up, did laundry, donated some of our clothing and gear to the local Goodwill, and rested.   While there are a few days of hiking in between here and our destination of Tobermory, this was our last big stop until we reach the northern cairn.

 
Getting ready this morning, there were far fewer of the aches and pains than during the past few days, and a great deal more anticipation for what lay ahead.  I had begun to wonder whether we had finally found our stride?  I can only hope so, as the realities of the Bruce Trail across the Peninsula Section are by all accounts quite challenging, and give way to two immediate facts. 
 
First, at present we have 165.5 kilometers of trail to trek until we reach Tobermory, our final destination and the location of the northern terminus for the Bruce Trail.  By contrast, the distance between Wiarton and Tobermory as the crow flies – or as the car drives – is a mere 75 kilometers.  As such, the trail is more than twice as long as the linear distance between these two points.  This is a somewhat depressing detail.

 
Second, the logistical realities of the BTC from Wiarton northward very much determine what our coming daily distances will be.  The need to get access to drinking water, and the need to camp or find nightly accommodations, determines where each day will begin and end.   As a result, while some days might be very short, others will be longer than we would prefer.  
 
Given these logistical realities, today we needed to cover more than 30 kilometers to get to the Cape Croker campground.  Setting out, I could only hope that we had indeed found our stride, lightened our backpacks enough, and could cover this distance. 
 

Spirit Rock Conservation Area

 
Heading out this morning, we rejoined the Bruce Trail at the beach, and followed the gravel pathway along the harbour front, past RVs and sail boats docked at the marina.  Leaving Wiarton, we followed a road alongside the bay before tracing the rocky shoreline on a narrow pathway that led us into a corridor of conifer trees that at times only barely hugged the land.  Grateful for the breeze coming off the lake, as the day’s humidity and temperature were already on the rise, we entered into Spirit Rock Conservation Area.
 

As with so many regions in North America, this area has a number of Aboriginal, as well as European stories, which define it.  According to a local historical sign in Spirit Rock C.A., this area is named after the daughter of a regional tribal chief who was enslaved by her father’s rivals, only to fall in love with her captor, a young chieftain.  This chieftain released her and his warriors, who were furious over his actions and pushed him off the top of the escarpment.   The young lady, now rejected by her own people and wanting to be with the young chieftain, also threw herself off the same cliff.  According to legend, when the sun strikes the escarpment a certain way, her spirit can be seen in the rock face in the shape of her profile.  This is the story about how the name Spirit Rock came to be. 

Alternatively, this region is also known for being the estate and home of the former Parliamentary Member Alexander McNeil (1881-1901), who in the late nineteenth century purchased the property to construct his mansion, which is known today as either the “Corran” or McNeill Estate.  Originally a 17 room house, which included oriental carvings, tapestries, and a library, the estate fell into disrepair during the Great Depression.  After having several owners it was sold to the conservation authority in the 1970s after a massive fire damaged what remained of the house.

 
For our part, the focus of our time here was on the Bruce Trail, which quickly shrunk to a narrow stone pathway as it wove along the shore of Colpoy’s Bay.  This route took us along a rocky trail that followed the water’s edge before steeply climbing up the side of the escarpment.  Thankfully, this challenging stretch was made easier by the fact that the rocks seem to have been either laid out or worn into a makeshift natural staircase.  In addition, there is an installed red metal hand railing which we were grateful to use to heave ourselves uphill.  

 
With sore legs we soon arrived at the base of a red spiral metal staircase, which we needed to climb to reach the top of the escarpment.  While this sounds like an easy task, the narrow spindle of steps that looked like they belonged in a Victorian home rather than on the trail, were awkward to navigate with our backpacks on.   Regardless, these stairs were a unique change from weaving and switch-backing up rocky trails.  Once back on top of the escarpment, the BTC became a flat and easy trek under the shady canopy of a mixed forest and then across a small patch of grassland.  All of this was welcome as it made for easy and enjoyable hiking to begin the day.

 

Grasslands and Country Musings

 
Pushing on, we crossed open fields and the collapsed remnants of stone buildings before passing through an open fence.  With almost 5 kilometers behind us, we took a break, sitting on the installed but unnecessary trail stile and enjoying the cool morning breeze. We slipped off our backpacks and sipped the cold water we were carrying. 
 
After our 20 minute break we continued on across an open field, tracing along the edge of a tree line.  Here the wide dirt trail wove amid tall grasses that obscured the periodic rocky fissures in the ground.  Given the terrain, our progress was quick, and we passed a large disused concrete silo which had the Bruce Trail blazes marked on its base.  We soon entered into Colpoy’s Bay Village and after a short walk along its quiet streets, and crossing Grey Road 9 we entered into a section known as Colpoys’ Bluff.
 

Colpoy’s Bluff 

 
Here we continued our hike amid the open farmlands and fields of the region.  We also enjoyed amazing views of Colpoy’s Bay and Wiarton, now to the south of us.  After a short period, the Bruce Trail cut back to the escarpment ridge and its accompanying forests, giving us a break from the relentless summer sun.  Out of the fields, our path soon returned to the routine of weaving amid stones and boulders on the forest floor and stepping carefully over tree roots.  Despite the need to watch our footing, the hiking here was relaxing – whether because of the gentler topography of the pathway, or the fact that our bodies were getting more and more used to hiking I am not sure.

 
Passing the Mallory Beach Side Trail sign, we entered into the section of Colpoy’s Bluff that our maps indicated consisted of two separate protected green spaces.  The rocky and uneven terrain through the forest continued as we pushed northward.  Periodically, we were given more stunning views over the escarpment’s edge and across the bay.  While the panoramic perspectives were amazing, these gaps in the forest were more exciting for us as they felt like gusts of air conditioning as the wind blew off the water around us.  Unnervingly, these lookouts also at times gave way to precarious views straight down the side of the escarpment where we could see the shale at the base of the cliff far below.
 

Malcolm Bluff Shores Nature Reserve

As the morning and the trail continued on, the wide pathway made our ridge walk through the area and across this gorgeous region an enjoyable hike.  We seemed to glide through the tunnel of trees with little effort, and soon found ourselves entering into the Malcolm Bluff Shores Nature Reserve.   As another hour and another 5 or 6 kilometers passed, we took our second break for the day at the junction of the Malcolm Bluff Shortcut Side Trail.  Throughout this section the path had become a wide packed dirt trail that had made hiking easy and allowed us the opportunity to look around as we walked.  As a result, at the halfway point in our day we were all still feeling really good. 

 
With our break done we tied our shoes back on and followed the BTC as our route turned west and the flat trail we had enjoyed began navigating more of the topography of the escarpment, leading us to climb and descend the landscape.   The rocky outcroppings, large boulders, and roots across the trail that we had not been missing again became more of a challenge for us.  Regardless, we soon traversed Coveney’s Hill, ventured past a small wetland, and arrived at the uniquely named Crooked Toe Rd.   Nearing the end of this section, the trail took us out into a field of meadow flowers and then wove us back and forth over a large series of large cracks in the ground.  These crevices were fascinatingly full of mosses and ferns that we wish we were able to identify. 
 

So Close Yet So Far: Side Trails versus Main Trails

 
Walking along Crooked Toe Rd and following Boundary Rd northward we soon arrived at the Jones Bluff Side Trail.  By the time we arrived there it was 3 pm, and while we had lots of daylight left, we had also being hiking for over 6 hours.  Having ventured more than 23 kilometers today, we were beginning to feel the weight of our backpacks.  As such, the whispers of temptation soon gave way to a group debate. If we were to follow the BTC side trail we could complete our day in about 3 kilometers.  Alternatively, if we stuck to the main route we had about 10 kilometers of trekking left for the day before arriving at Cape Croker campground. 

 
Sitting at a fork in the trail we debated the issue – with both Sean and I leaning heavily on the “virtues” of the shorter side trail.  Ultimately however, to our surprise, it was the younger member of our group that wanted to walk as much of the main trail as possible – despite the length of the day already.  And so, pulling our backpacks on, we prepared for another 2 hours of hiking along the Bruce Trail out onto Jones Bluff.
 

Indigenous Legacy

 
With at least one of us very determined, we continued on!  Walking north along the edge of the escarpment I think Sean and I were walking on automatic – driven by the determined energy of a stubborn teenager and the reflexes of our legs, which had begun to turn to jelly during our last break. 
 
Jones Buff, along with a number of other sections of the Bruce Trail, in this area passed through Indigenous territory.  According to band resources online, this region was historically the ancestral territory of the Saugeen Ojibway Nation and has been inhabited since before the arrival of Europeans.   The history of these peoples and their territory since meeting the British has been somewhat complex.    With the arrival of white peoples, the lands of the Saugeen Ojibway were increasingly subject to encroachment by European settlers.   Despite attempts with the Royal Proclamation of 1763, the signing of Treaty No. 45 ½ (1863), and a Royal Declaration by Queen Victoria in 184, which confirmed that the Saugeen Peninsula (now Bruce Peninsula) was the territory of the Saugeen Ojibway, the situation continued. 

 
By the late nineteenth century, with European settlers still not respecting their territory, the Superintendent General for Indian Affairs, Lauraence Oliphant, forced the band leaders to sign Treaty No. 72 in 1854.  Under the terms of this document the Saugeen Ojibway would have more of their land sold, with the proceeds held in trust - which it was decided would better protect the remaining lands from encroachment. However, the result essentially served to create the reserve system for Indigenous peoples in the area, dividing their territory into a number of regions.  A few years later, in 1857, the peoples of these lands would be further put upon when additional portions of their territory, including the lands around Owen Sound, were stripped away.  A similar situation arose again in 1861, when the lands of Colpoy’s Bay were taken, and the remaining residents were directed to move to Cape Croker. 

 
In the years that followed the Indian Agent assigned to this territory promoted agriculture, forestry, and fishing, which transformed the traditional lifestyle of the local peoples.  Unfortunately, none of these proved to be stable industries or sources for long term income.  In addition, by the early 1900s the peoples of this territory were subject to what has been termed “very aggressive” attempts to convert them to Christianity.  In the years since, the band has sought to have their traditional culture, territories, and claims recognized.    

Throughout its history, this region has gone by a number of names.  The Indigenous Peoples here call it Neyaashiinigmiing, which translates as “point of land surrounded on three sides by water”.  In contrast, European fur traders called this region Point au Portage, and it was later renamed in the 1850s by British surveyor Henry Bayfield after John Wilson Croker, a secretary to the Admiralty (1809-1830).  At present, it is known as the Neyaashiinigmiing Reserve of the Chippewas of Nawash Unceded First Nation.  

Jones Bluff

 
Thankfully, our trek through Jones Bluff was easy, as the compacted pathway and relatively level terrain was undemanding to trek along.  Additionally, the lush and leafy deciduous forest around us had a beautiful tall canopy, which kept the full strength of the afternoon sun at bay.    En route we had views back across the blue waters of Colpoy’s Bay of Skinner’s Bluff, which we had hiked two days ago on our way into Wiarton.  Reaching Sydney Bay bluff, the furthest point on Jones Bluff, the BTC turned south again along the rim of the escarpment. 
 
Around 30 minutes later, we were back at the other trailhead of the Jones Bluff Side Trail, where we descended the escarpment and began trekking down Park Rd into Cape Crocker Park.  Admittedly this was, for us, a long 2 kilometer stretch of gravel road walking in the unrelenting afternoon sun.  Then again, the final kilometers of the day are always the hardest.  Walking up to the campground entrance, the first thing we noticed was the convenience store for the park.  Dropping our backpacks outside at the door, we walked in and quickly enjoyed several bottles of iced teas each, a tube of Pringles chips, and ice cream.  Clearly, hiking does not give way to eating a balanced or nutritious diet.  Regardless, the cool drinks and treats were exactly what we needed!

Cape Croker Park Campground

Cooled off and reenergized from our sugary treats, we checked into the welcoming Cape Croker Park Campground.  This beautiful park has the look and feel as though it had at one point been an Ontario Parks site.  We were soon assigned a site for the night and went about the routine of setting up our tent on the shores of the tranquil Sydney Bay.   Despite the fact that it was still light out, with everything set up, and having washed off the worst of the day’s sweat and grime, we found ourselves falling asleep.  Knowing we needed energy after such a hard day, we quickly boiled water and made up a quick Mountain House camping meal of Vegetarian Lasagna before going to bed. 

 
Upon reflection, I think that things really began to jell today.  This was the first day of trekking the Peninsula section when we had long stretches that seemed to fly past.  The weight of the packs was less noticeable – at least until the end of the day.  Overall, there was more chatting and less complaining en route from all.  Finally, it seems as though our youngest group member has dedicated himself to hiking the full peninsula region, following the main Bruce Trail and not taking short cuts. This represents a huge change in him and for this hike.   Overall, we seem to have turned a corner amid our efforts, and have been rewarded with not only a great day in nature and on the trail, but also a huge day of hiking, driven largely by our younger family member.   Put another way – today gives me the sense that we can do this!