Hike 27: Triumph and Loss - Griersville Area to Rocklyn Creek

Breakfast on the Bruce Trail

The 'stealth' part of stealth camping generally requires one to walk until dark and then be up and packed before dawn so as to be less evident. As such, we were awake at 5:30 am and packed up by 6 am – though after trekking nearly 40 kilometers yesterday our bodies still hurt a great deal. Sitting on the side of the trail beside our backpacks we made our breakfast.  We quickly mixed up cold brew coffee from Tim Hortons, gobbled down the last of our peanut butter and wraps, and got ready for what was actually one of our shortest days on the Bruce Trail yet. 
 
Bruce Trail Griersville Ontario.

Our estimate for today’s trek was that we had between 10 and12 kilometers to cover in order to get back to our rental car, which we hoped was still parked at Blantyre.  While this was indeed a short distance with somewhat rested and refreshed bodies this morning, we felt that it would have been a real challenge yesterday evening after the day’s already long venture.  If all went well, today’s hike would bring us to the conclusion of the Beaver Valley section and about 3 kilometers into the Sydenham section.  There we planned to pick up our car, drive to Owen Sound for a well deserved shower, do our laundry, and rest for the evening, before returning to the trail tomorrow to continue trekking from where we left off in Rocklyn Creek back into Owen Sound. 
 
Thankfully (not to give anything away) today’s short hike was essentially an easy stretch of walking north to Griersville, where the trail turned west, heading to our destination of Rocklyn Creek Management Area, which marked the end of the Beaver Valley Section and the beginning of the Sydenham Section.    In truth, had we had more energy in us yesterday, and the unseasonably warm weather had not been so draining, we could have (and likely should have) pushed for the Ambrose Camp area to conclude our trek at an official camp area.  We had even been tempted to really push yesterday, but the end result would have been a 40+ km day, which we simply did not have in us.
 
Regardless, yesterday was yesterday and today we had only the trail in front of us.  Packed and ready, we set off with our goal in sight.
 

Griersville Management Area

 
Setting out, we continued on the trail through the maple forest where we had camped last night, and navigated around lush green wetlands and marshes.  There we saw Wood Duck boxes, the result of a regional research project or conservation initiative. Although we didn't spot any Wood Ducks, there were a number of Mallards paddling about in the shallow water, as well as a couple of Green-winged Teal.  It was wonderful to see that these wetlands had been and preserved, as so many of them are increasingly getting filled it for agricultural development and urban expansion.  This is a growing problem, because wetlands are essential for improving the quality of our water, aiding in flood control, limiting erosion, and providing habitat for essential species.

Bruce Trail Guidebook and hiking maps.

In quick succession, the Bruce Trail crossed a number of roadways and concessions as it led us across the top of the escarpment.  En route, the trail continued across rocky outcroppings while keeping us under beautiful tree cover.  Our largest challenge throughout this stretch was that yesterday’s brief rain shower had made some of the rocks slippery, which in turn required us to remain constantly aware of how we walked and where we placed our feet. 

BTC hiking path.

Entering open fields, we quickly discovered that the evening dew – enhanced by yesterday’s rain – meant that the tall grasses and underbrush that the trail meandered through were still very damp.  As a result, within minutes we were soaked from the waist down and walking in sodden hiking boots. And so it was in this manner – very wet, watching the ground under our feet, and crossing concessions that we pushed on. 
 

Anthea’s Waterfall

 
Crossing the 7th line roadway, the Bruce Trail traced the edge of agricultural fields under a dense canopy of trees.  At one point, we crossed a fast-running stream over a wonderful wooden bridge.  Once across, we took the opportunity to refill and treat some water, having used the last of ours for breakfast almost 2 hours previously.  Having collected and begun purifying our water at the top of the short waterfall, we spotted a plaque noting that this waterway is named for Anthea Catherine East.  Purportedly, she was the daughter of Dr. Tom East, one of the founders of the BTC, who was killed in a bike accident at a very young age. 

 
Standing at the top of the short water drop off, we again spotted the two young ladies that we had noticed wild camping yesterday along the Bruce Trail.  At the base of Anthea’s waterfall, they were sitting on boulders in the water amid the rocky stream bed in swimsuits cooling off.   They must have passed us camping at one point yesterday evening and hiked on. Waiting for our water to be drinkable, we chatted for a few minutes about our time on the BTC. As it turns out, these young ladies have been thru-hiking and wild-camping the full length of the Bruce Trail since leaving Queenston Heights 20 days ago!
 
After comparing tales from the trail, we gave them our extra day’s worth of freeze dried backpacker meals and saying our goodbyes, continued on.  There we were, trekking the Bruce Trail and being uncertain about wild-camping over the span of two or three nights, while these intrepid ladies had made it work over the course of almost an entire month. 
 

The Wrong Sign

 
At one point in our trek this morning we came across a wooden sign stating that we were 221 km to Tobermory and 664 km from Niagara Falls.  While this exciting news, these numbers seemed somewhat suspect to us.  Our current estimates suggested that we had somewhere between 340 and 350 kilometers left before reaching Tobermory, and that we had hiked some 550 kilometers since leaving Niagara Falls. Perhaps this sign was installed prior to some change in the Bruce Trail, or perhaps it was the result of an optimistic resident striving to encourage northbound hikers?  Either way, we were undoubtedly closer to our destination that our point of departure, and it was a nice reminder of that.
 

Ending Beaver Valley, Beginning Sydenham

 
Within minutes of leaving Anthena’s Falls we emerged from a small treed plantation onto Grey Rd 12.  This innocuous concession is the home of the Village of Blantyre, and the dividing line between the Beaver Valley and Sydenham sections of the Bruce Trail.  Standing there on the side of the road, our best guess was that we had now covered just over 60% of the Bruce Trail from Niagara Falls to Blantyre!

Blantyre Ontario sketch.
 
The historic hamlet of Blantyre – so named in the BTC guidebook – is today only a handful of homes and a dot on the map along a concession.  Yet, in the nineteenth century it was purportedly a booming settlement which included two blacksmith shops, weaving houses, and a regional post master.  So quiet and quaint is this area today that one wonders whether it really would have been improved by being developed into some sprawling community, or whether the peacefulness is a better reward for its local residents.  Having undertaken our hike across the Bruce Trail to escape the hustle and bustle of the cities to the south, I love regions such as this one, which give way to room to stretch and explore. 
 

Rocklyn Creek Management Area

 
In the process of crossing the roadway and passing through Blantyre the main route of the Bruce Trail navigates down a farmer’s driveway beside a recently plowed field. Soon afterwards, the trail took us back into the bush as we wove through the forested landscape. Our elation at having completed the Beaver Valley section of the Bruce Trail made it feel as though we glided through the final 3.3 kilometers across the beginning of Sydenham section and into Rocklyn Creek Management Area.

 
Some 20 minutes later we arrived at one of the few BTC camping areas – the Ambrose Campsite.   There we found an actual wooden shelter with a spray painted white BTC logo on its side, as well as a water source.  This camping area was nice and well used, but was unfortunately filled will junk and empty water bottles.  Despite the garbage and rough nature of the site, we took a few moments to rest and take off our soaked hiking shoes.  Before heading out, we took the opportunity to give back, and using two of our stuff sacks we set about collecting as much of the garbage and wrappers as we could.  We would carry them out and dispose of this waste properly, off trail.
 
Pushing on, we continued through the forested region, climbing uphill and meandering amid fallen branches.   We soon arrived onto Deviation Rd and retrieved our rental car, which thankfully was no worse for wear despite having been left alone for a few days. 
 

Beaver Valley Completed

 
We ended our sectional thru-hike upon arriving at the western boundary of Rocklyn Creek Management Area.  While we had thought to legally camp in Rocklyn Creek for a final night, we were both exhausted and desperate for proper food and a shower.  With this in mind, and with the Beaver Valley Section completed, we promptly unstrapped our backpacks and tossed them with delight into the vehicle before driving the 35 kilometers to Owen Sound.  Once in the town we got a motel room, had a long awaited shower, and went out to celebrate.
 
Little did we know that a simple mistake that evening would mix our moment of triumph with an unfortunate and unnecessary time of loss.
 

Triumph and Loss

 
Sitting down at a local restaurant, we were quick to order our meals and grab a couple of pints to celebrate the completion of the Beaver Valley Section of the Bruce Trail!  With a few days left before we needed to be back home, we decided to use the time to push into the Sydenham section, and determined that we could get back to Owen Sound if we did so.  Having come so far, we were eager to continue on – such was our sense of triumph in the moment. 

Bruce Trail photography.
 
Unfortunately, earlier in the evening we had made a simple but stupid mistake.  Having checked in and cleaned up before setting out for dinner, we gave little thought to having left the DSLR camera on the back seat of the rental car.  As a result, we were stunned when we returned to our rental car to find that one of the back doors had been pried open by a thief.  Inside, the glove compartment had been gone through, and some spare change had been taken, but the biggest loss was the fact that the camera – left on the backseat – had been stolen.   This is why – for the blogs you are reading - there are so few pictures of our hike across Beaver Valley over the past few entries. All we had to post was the few I took on my cell phone.
 
Devastated at the loss of the camera, and frustrated by our own stupidity, and what it would lead to, we fell into despair.  The situation quickly brought into question whether we should continue hiking on the Bruce for the next few days - given that we couldn’t photograph it well or share it. We soon drove the rental car back to our motel and walked back out to have a few more beers – this time not in celebration, but out of frustration.  We now had to make the tough decision regarding whether to continue hiking or not.

 
Unfortunately, this would not be the only source of frustration we experienced during our hike of the Beaver Valley section.  A second loss would compound the first a week later when, after emailing the Bruce Trail Conservancy with copies of our journals to request our Sectional Backpacking patches, we were soundly informed that because we had wild-camped on the trail our hike could not and absolutely would not be recognized.  The email went on to disparage us for taking such action, informing us that we were selfish and had endangered the use of the Bruce Trail for countless others who followed the rules. 
 
Ultimately, this meant two things.  First, we will not get a patch or credit for having hiked the Beaver Valley section.  And second, when we reach Tobermory our Bruce Trail End-to-End will itself not be recognized, as we will have effectively not completed the Beaver Valley section according to the BTC.

Sonya Richmond top Canadian Hiker.
 
In some ways it seems as if our time hiking the Beaver Valley section, though naturally beautiful and a wonderful experience, was simply not meant to be easy. Such is life, and in the end, no trek is about the patch on the backpack, the certificate on the wall, or the acknowledgement of others.  We can only ever hike for the time spent in nature and the personal feeling of achievement.   These things we have in plenty and no one can take them away.
 
Onward, Forward, Northward we continue.

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